:root{
  --paper:#faf6ef; --card:#fffdf9; --ink:#20140c; --muted:#6b5c4d;
  --line:#e7dccb; --line2:#efe7d8;
  --saffron:#c8641e; --marigold:#e08a1e; --maroon:#7a1f2b; --gold:#b78b3a;
  --shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(60,40,20,.05),0 8px 30px rgba(60,40,20,.06);
  --serif:"Iowan Old Style","Palatino Linotype",Palatino,Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --sans:system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);
  font-size:17px;line-height:1.62;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
.wrap{max-width:1080px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 22px}
a{color:var(--maroon);text-decoration:none}
a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.01em;line-height:1.15;font-weight:600}
img{max-width:100%;display:block}

.site-head{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:20;background:rgba(250,246,239,.9);
  backdrop-filter:saturate(1.4) blur(10px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.site-head .wrap{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;height:62px}
.brand{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.28rem;font-weight:600;color:var(--ink);display:flex;align-items:center;gap:9px}
.brand .om{width:26px;height:26px;border-radius:50%;background:
  radial-gradient(circle at 30% 30%,var(--marigold),var(--saffron));display:inline-block;
  box-shadow:0 0 0 4px rgba(200,100,30,.12)}
.brand b{color:var(--saffron);font-weight:600}
.topnav{display:flex;gap:24px;font-size:.94rem}
.topnav a{color:var(--muted);font-weight:500}
.topnav a:hover{color:var(--saffron);text-decoration:none}
@media(max-width:720px){.topnav{display:none}}

.crumbs{font-size:.86rem;color:var(--muted);padding:16px 0 0}
.crumbs a{color:var(--muted)}
.crumbs span{color:var(--saffron)}

.hero{padding:18px 0 8px}
.hero h1{font-size:2.5rem;margin:.35em 0 .3em}
.hero .lede{font-size:1.18rem;color:var(--muted);max-width:74ch;margin:0}
.kicker{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;font-size:.8rem;font-weight:700;
  letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--saffron)}
.kicker::before{content:"";width:22px;height:2px;background:var(--saffron);display:inline-block}
.hero-media{margin:22px 0 6px;border-radius:16px;overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow);position:relative;border:1px solid var(--line)}
.hero-media img{width:100%;height:clamp(260px,42vw,460px);object-fit:cover}
.hero-media .credit{position:absolute;right:10px;bottom:8px;font-size:.7rem;color:#fff;
  background:rgba(0,0,0,.42);padding:3px 9px;border-radius:20px}
@media(max-width:720px){.hero h1{font-size:1.95rem}}

.factbar{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:0;background:var(--card);
  border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow);margin:20px 0}
.factbar .f{padding:16px 18px;border-right:1px solid var(--line2)}
.factbar .f:last-child{border-right:0}
.factbar .l{font-size:.74rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--muted);font-weight:700}
.factbar .v{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.16rem;margin-top:3px;line-height:1.3}
@media(max-width:720px){.factbar{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.factbar .f:nth-child(2){border-right:0}
  .factbar .f:nth-child(1),.factbar .f:nth-child(2){border-bottom:1px solid var(--line2)}}

.body-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 290px;gap:40px;margin:26px 0 40px;align-items:start}
@media(max-width:900px){.body-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
article h2{font-size:1.7rem;margin:38px 0 10px;padding-top:6px}
article h2:first-child{margin-top:8px}
article h3{font-size:1.24rem;margin:24px 0 6px}
article p{margin:0 0 14px}
.note{background:#fff7ec;border:1px solid #f0d9b3;border-left:3px solid var(--marigold);
  padding:13px 16px;border-radius:10px;font-size:.96rem;margin:16px 0}
.note b{color:var(--maroon)}

.tablewrap{overflow-x:auto;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);margin:16px 0}
table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:16px;background:var(--card);min-width:520px}
caption{caption-side:top;text-align:left;font-weight:700;font-size:.9rem;color:var(--muted);padding:12px 16px 0}
th,td{text-align:left;padding:12px 16px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line2);vertical-align:top}
thead th{background:#f5ecdd;font-size:.82rem;letter-spacing:.03em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--maroon)}
tbody tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}
td.hi{font-weight:600;color:var(--ink)}
.pill{display:inline-block;font-size:.74rem;font-weight:700;padding:2px 9px;border-radius:20px;letter-spacing:.02em}
.pill.open{background:#e4f2e4;color:#2f6b34}
.pill.closed{background:#f6e0e0;color:#9a2b2b}
.pill.seasonal{background:#fde9d3;color:#8a5a12}

.schedule{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:16px 0;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--card);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.schedule li{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;padding:13px 18px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line2)}
.schedule li:last-child{border-bottom:0}
.schedule .t{font-family:var(--serif);color:var(--saffron);font-weight:600;white-space:nowrap}

.cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:16px;margin:16px 0}
@media(max-width:720px){.cards{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.tcard{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow);transition:transform .15s ease}
.tcard:hover{transform:translateY(-3px)}
.tcard img{height:150px;width:100%;object-fit:cover;background:#efe7d8}
.tcard .b{padding:13px 15px}
.tcard h3{margin:0 0 3px;font-size:1.1rem}
.tcard p{margin:0;font-size:.9rem;color:var(--muted)}
.tcard .m{margin-top:8px;font-size:.82rem;color:var(--saffron);font-weight:600}

.faq{margin:14px 0}
.faq details{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;margin-bottom:10px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.faq summary{cursor:pointer;padding:15px 18px;font-weight:600;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.08rem;list-style:none;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px}
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq summary::after{content:"+";color:var(--saffron);font-size:1.3rem;line-height:1}
.faq details[open] summary::after{content:"\2013"}
.faq .a{padding:0 18px 16px;color:var(--muted)}

.reviews{background:linear-gradient(180deg,#fff9f0,#fffdf9);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;padding:22px 24px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);margin:18px 0}
.rev-head{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:18px;flex-wrap:wrap;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line2);padding-bottom:16px;margin-bottom:16px}
.rev-score{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:2.6rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1;color:var(--maroon)}
.stars{color:var(--marigold);font-size:1.15rem;letter-spacing:2px}
.rev-count{color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem}

.side{position:sticky;top:80px}
.side .box{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:16px 18px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);margin-bottom:16px}
.side h4{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.05rem;margin:0 0 10px}
.side .qk{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:10px;font-size:.9rem;padding:7px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line2)}
.side .qk:last-child{border-bottom:0}
.side .qk span:first-child{color:var(--muted)}
.side .qk b{font-weight:600;text-align:right}
.spokes{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.spokes li{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line2)}
.spokes li:last-child{border-bottom:0}
.spokes a{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding:11px 0;color:var(--ink);font-weight:500;font-size:.95rem}
.spokes a:hover{color:var(--saffron);text-decoration:none}
.spokes a::after{content:"\2192";color:var(--saffron)}

.toc{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:6px 0 8px}
.toc a{font-size:.85rem;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:6px 13px;border-radius:20px;color:var(--muted)}
.toc a:hover{border-color:var(--saffron);color:var(--saffron);text-decoration:none}

/* directory / category grid */
.dirgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:18px;margin:22px 0}
@media(max-width:820px){.dirgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
@media(max-width:560px){.dirgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* spoke prose page */
.prose{max-width:74ch}
.prose p{margin:0 0 16px}
.backlink{display:inline-block;margin:8px 0 2px;font-size:.9rem;font-weight:600;color:var(--saffron)}

/* thick-page components */
.answer-lead{background:#fff4e6;border:1px solid #f0d9b3;border-left:3px solid var(--saffron);border-radius:12px;padding:15px 18px;font-size:1.06rem;line-height:1.6;margin:0 0 20px;color:var(--ink)}
.answer-lead .q{display:block;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:600;color:var(--maroon);margin-bottom:4px}
.deep{display:inline-block;margin:4px 0 10px;font-weight:600;color:var(--saffron);font-size:.92rem}
.deep:hover{text-decoration:none;color:var(--maroon)}
.related{border-top:1px solid var(--line2);margin-top:28px;padding-top:18px}
.related h3{font-size:1.12rem;margin:0 0 10px}
.related a{display:inline-block;margin:0 14px 9px 0;font-weight:600;font-size:.95rem}
.srcnote{font-size:.82rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:22px;padding-top:12px;border-top:1px solid var(--line2)}
.srcnote a{color:var(--muted);text-decoration:underline}
.prose ul.rules{margin:0 0 18px;padding-left:0;list-style:none}
.prose ul.rules li{position:relative;padding:9px 0 9px 26px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line2)}
.prose ul.rules li:last-child{border-bottom:0}
.prose ul.rules li::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:4px;top:16px;width:8px;height:8px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--saffron)}

.site-foot{background:#241812;color:#e8dccb;margin-top:20px;padding:34px 0}
.site-foot .wrap{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:.9rem}
.site-foot a{color:#e8b877}
.site-foot .muted{color:#a8927c;max-width:44ch;margin-top:8px}

/* state directory grid */
.stategrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:14px;margin:22px 0}
@media(max-width:820px){.stategrid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
@media(max-width:520px){.stategrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.statecard{display:block;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;
  padding:16px 18px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);transition:transform .15s ease,border-color .15s ease}
.statecard:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);border-color:var(--saffron);text-decoration:none}
.statecard h3{margin:0 0 2px;font-size:1.1rem}
.statecard p{margin:0;font-size:.86rem;color:var(--muted)}
